Back to Blog
Major havoc arcade machine7/7/2023 Move the mouse PCB to the front of the unit to allow easier access to the mounting holes Swapped out the metal bearings for nylon bushings. I wanted a smoother feel to and a simpler design. I decided to scrap the first test unit pretty much all together and redesign it. A lathe would be the most accurate if one is available.Īfter putting the first test unit (the roller controller shown in the first post) through some good testing, I realized it just wouldn't work the way I was going about it. Free hand is possible but you'd want the bore to be aligned and centered as much as possible. A harder wheel can be found without a hub made of a different material.Īnyway, a drill press to drill the hub out will work. Wheels of this type usually have a soft surface so are made with a harder material hub. If going through all that, it'd be easier to just cast a resin roller. Then the bore would have to be filled with resin, ensuring there are absolutely no air bubbles. The entire center would have to be bored and then polished. It would take a lot more effort to make a part suitable for illumination if that's the case. It also looks like the center diameter of the hub is larger that the outside edge diameters. Sanding the bore may help with that though. Those wheels might be more transparent than translucent, making it possible to actually see the lighting source versus just seeing the light from the source. I'm trying to start from that point and make the skate wheel work. If any of you guys know that actual mounting hole dimensions, please let me know. My main goal as far as size for the controller, is to get the mounting really close to the original Major Havoc controller. I'm just looking for close enough to play on MAME and feel somewhat authentic (and not pay through the nose). I'm sure that's the case for a true 1 to 1 reproduction, but I'm not looking for 100% repro. I've read some posts saying you can't use a skate wheel because it's not sized correctly. The next one I make will be the Beta model. I'm currently testing this one now and making notes on what to improve. This is just a prototype, and it has a few issues, but it's enough of a start for me to know this will work. After some 3D layout work (and some hours on printing) I came up with this: Using what I learned from making my Cyclone Controller, I decide to use a mouse PCB to track the roller. I'm okay with that if the price is right. Yes, I know that by using a wheel (because of the hubs) It can never back light them. I found these skateboard wheels (70 mm dia. With this as my best guess based on the couple images I found I worked up a sketch and then went looking for a reasonable looking roller. If my dimensions are way off, please let me know. Using that picture (which still wasn't 100%) I guessed on the dimensions. He showed a template for cutting a hole for these roller controllers. I then stumbled on website of someone rebuilding a Major Havoc. I had a hard time finding dimension for the controller. My ThinCades are always done on the budget, so this controller had to be on one as well. After doing a search to try to find a controller like that, I was shocked at the cost of just the controller! After finding some good photos of the controller itself, I decided to take a stab at building one. The cabinet that I played it on did have the memorable roller controller. Of course I remember playing Major Havoc back in the arcades very briefly, but I remember thinking what a great game. In doing so, I try to decide if the control scheme is doable. Well, I'm always looking into different ThinCades that I might want to build.
0 Comments
Read More
Leave a Reply. |